Mpg of subaru outback

hi everyone. I’d love to own a maro and I have a budget of around 45k (give or take a few thousand). I’ve thought about the V8s, but since I’m still in college, I don’t think the insurance prices and premium gas requirement would do many any favor. Would the 3LT be a good choice? (V6 i know, but it’s cheaper gas better mpg). It might suit me better for now. Weirdly enough, it seems like the Lt1 and 3LT are almost the same price… any advice/suggestions?

Hey y’all, this is my first time posting in this group. I just bought Subaru Crosstrek and started planning a road trip out to Colorado in a few weeks. I’m hitting all four national parks, and I am SO excited for the trip!! The trip will be for 12 days.
I’ve been tent and camper camping before (before I bought a new car), and I’ve gone on short solo trips before, but this is the first big trip that I’m car camping solo. The plan is to sleep in my car most nights, so I’m using my tent camping sleep system and will be purchasing bug nets/privacy screens for the windows.
I’m testing my setup later this week before the big trip, so besides that, what random tips and tricks do y’all have? Or gear recommendations that I might not have thought about?
On a final note, please don’t criticize on lack of experience or the fact that I’m going solo. I’ve kept this in mind while planning my trip, and I’m looking for genuine tips from this group. Thank you in advance!!

Me: $108,500 gross pay @ 27 years old. Bi-weekly take home is about $2,600. I have about $2,500 in credit card debt but I plan to pay that off in the next two months. I don't think I've done a good job at saving real cash, per se, but I've been throwing money at my investments throughout COVID. I want to find out what would be the best option of paying off my student loans here. I have automatic withdrawals setup from by bank account to Acorns, Robinhood, and Coinbase every time I get paid. I just set up automatic transfers to my savings, as of a few weeks ago. Goal for that is to have it for like emergencies and stuff like the 3 months rule.
Ideally, I want to just get rid of it all at once but then it would require me to sell off some stuff, potentially paying taxes on gains. Would it be better to keep the investments as is? Then maybe use like the snowball method and pay off the highest interest debt throughout the year?
​

My Checking	$2,047
My Lame Savings	$517
401K	$53,418
Robinhood	$19,227
Acorns	$15,947
Roth IRA	$4,805
Crypto	$15,445

​

Loan 1	$3,116	4.6%
Loan 2	$2,115	4.6%
Loan 3	$3,998	4.2%
Loan 4	$2,008	4.2%
Loan 5	$4,871	3.7%
Loan 6	$1,906	3.7%
Loan 7	$930	4.4%

Edit:
Car is paid off, no other big expenses. Rent is $650. I do want to get a new car though. The new Subaru Crosstreks look nice.

What does everyone think about possibly trading for Monte Morris of the Wizards as a backup PG? We’re in need of a reliable ballhandler and decent scorer with Steph on the bench.
He averaged 10-3-5 last season with Washington in 27 mpg, on pretty efficient 48/38/83 splits. The season before with Denver, he put up 13-3-4 on 48/40/87 splits in 30 mpg. Two consistently impressive seasons. He’s also proven to be a playoff riser with Denver, in his last postseason with them he shot 49/42/75 on 14 ppg.
Figure we would have to trade Poole to get him, which could probably net us Monte + 1-2 minor role players or picks.
Just tossing ideas out there, not sure if this is feasible given the Warriors’ tough financial situation or Wizards’ trade viability.

PSU is an MSI MPG 1000G. It is ~2 months old, but is in a system that I've done quite a few hardware swaps in.
I started noticing an intermittent clicking sound while the PC is on. It's random, and is just one click at a time. Sometimes, I will hear 2-3 clicks over the course of a minute or two, but it's not really more frequent than that. Often I go 10-30 minutes without hearing anything.
The PC does not need to be under heavy load, and I do not notice it happening in conjunction with other things (like temperature increases, CPU/GPU load increase, etc). This has been hard to measure, though, as it requires constantly staring at hardware monitors, hoping to catch a glimpse of something changing when I hear a click.
I'm as positive as I can get that its coming from my power supply. With my ear right next to the PSU shroud, when a click happens I can hear it kind of echo from down in that chamber of the case.
It does not happen when I boot the PC up. Discharging the capacitors by unplugging the PSU and holding the power button for 30-60 seconds does not make it stop. There are no negative symptoms I've been able to observe.
What do I have going on here, and what should I do about it?

hey guys i'm really looking into getting a brz, there's one on the market for a great price and super low mileage near me, only concern I have with it is that its a 2013 so i've heard bad things about the recall, and also the owner mentioned that car sat and wasn't driven often for a while, is this something I should be worried about, also he has an exhaust and headers with a stage 2 tune, is this another thing I should stay away from?
Here is the ad description :
Because of the covid, I was away from Canada for two years, the car is being stored in the garage and only moved inside the block. All the modifications are done after 2021 September. Lowest km in the market The odometer is real, the car is fully serviced by Subaru with record before 2020. Clean records without accidents Open flash tablet V2 stage 2 for 2k km Oft UEL header HKS hi-performance single exhaust Keeps all the stock parts Brand new snow tires only half season Stock wheels with summer tires Hardly drive in winter Never drafting or driving in the track Just finish the oil change, transmission and differential fluid change New battery on 3k km Clean carfax no accidents PM me for the report .
He is asking 15000 CAD and the car only has 60000km (37,000 mi),
If anyone has some advice that would be great, thanks!

Just bought a 2017 Hobie kayak for $1600. It came with seat, paddle, dolly and a lure holder attachment. I had the option of getting a 2022 Hobie Passport 12.0 for $1500 with the same stuff. Did I make the right choice in taking the Outback and did I, at the very least, get a good deal?

TL;DR: I'm not liking the Crosstrek infotainment system.
I know most electronics/tech in cars is bad by default. Auto manufacturers suck at making tech, which is why Apple Carplay and Android Auto are popular ... They work a bit better than a infotainment system created solely by an auto manufacturer.
So, even with Carplay, I still expected there to be a few minor annoyances when I bought my new Crosstrek.
But, damn. I wasn't ready. I read the manual ... tried to get ahead of it. But there are lots of glitchy/unresponsive/weird issues:

• Startup takes forever. This may not be a fair criticism, because anytime you start up a system/computer, it may take a few seconds/minutes to be responsive. But after seeing the fancy "STARLINK" screen, then the green warning prompt, the screen seems to take forEVER to be responsive. The icons will appear, and I can click on them (and they flash, indicating that it recognizes that I clicked on it,) yet nothing happens for a long while. I can't just get in the car, turn on the radio and drive ... If I specifically want to fiddle with any controls before driving, I have to get in the car, WAIT A MINUTE OR TWO OR THREE (which seems like forever) for the system to boot up before being able to do anything with the system. (This is a first-world problem, I know. Just saying that this is an unusual problem that other makes have found a way to avoid.)
• Random radio cut-offs. Driving down the road, attentively listening to the news on the radio, when suddently/randomly: silence. As if someone just turned off the radio. At first I thought that my phone's microphone was triggered by something, prompting the car to want to help by channeling audio through bluetooth. But, I don't typically touch my phone while driving, and don't have any apps (that I'm aware of) that I've allowed microphone use when the app is not in use. But, for whatever reason, the radio just decides: "No more radio for you!" And I have to switch sources a couple of times to get the radio to come back on. Even if this problem is one of operator error, this alone speaks to how poorly this system is designed.
• Will Carplay show up today? Maybe ... Maybe not! Many times after starting vehicle, Carplay simply doesn't appear as an option. (This is well after having driven it fine with no problems previously.) My phone says I still have it, but when going into car settings, Apple Carplay is greyed out (unclickable.) Attempts to re-connect it don't work, because the phone is STILL connected ... but the Carplay app isn't visible. Restarting the car sometimes fixes this, but sometimes, it doesn't.
• Touchscreen? More like PUNCHscreen! I need to double-check whether there's a sensitivity setting for the responsiveness of the touchscreen, in general. But it's 50/50 on whether my fingers will successfully be recognized by the touchscreen or not. (Meaning, sometimes I click on the screen and nothing happens, as it if doesn't sense my fingers touching it.) Maybe this is due to body temperature or maybe natural oils on my hands limiting its functionality ... but it's annoying. I have to really put in concentrated effort to point my fingers squarely in the middle of each icon and put the full weight of my fingertip pad on the screen in hopes of getting it to respond.
• Scrolling through "source" when on Apple Carplay hits a wall in the cycle (rather than simply circling through all options repeatedly.) Hear me out here. When attempting to use the steering wheel controls to change the music/media options, I press the "source" button. This is supposed to cycle through FM, then AM, then satellite/SiriusXM, then Bluetooth ... and then back to FM again to repeat the cycle if I want to keep searching for the source I want. BUT, when using Carplay, it doesn't do this. Instead, if I'm listening to satellite radio and want to cycle through to FM, I press "source" in hopes of bypassing Bluetooth to get to FM again. But, while Carplay is active, it doesn't register as "bluetooth." So, when I press "source" from satellite to bluetooth, the system thinks there IS NO bluetooth connection, and it freezes. Pressing the source button does nothing, and I can't make the source button work in reverse. To solve the problem, I have to touch the screen manually to pull up FM again (defeating the purpose of trying to use the steering wheel controls.) In trying to troubleshoot the problem, I confirmed that if I turn OFF Carplay and just use regular bluetooth, then scrolling through ALL the sources works as designed, because the car recognizes there is a bluetooth device connected. (Of course, this defeats the purpose of Carplay.) Again a first-world problem, but an annoying one. There should be a way to make the source button work properly with Carplay on.
• Starlink? Or MySubaru? Or Carplay? Or Bluetooth? I recognize that each of these are different systems, but clearly their is some grey-area sharing with how they're "connected" to the car, and it's confusing. (Yes, I'll try re-reading the manual.)

TL;DR: I'm not liking the Crosstrek infotainment system.
I'll take my downvotes now.

Got a predator pdl I just picked up, don't have a problem lifting it up, just need ideas on how not to tear my car up. Got a subaru outback, looked at the yakima showboat 66 but it's got a weight capacity of around 80.

hello, I am a 19 year old guy and I'm planning on moving to Colorado in a few months. I'm looking to buy a used sedan that's under 10 grand (but as cheap as possible) that is around 100-130k miles while also having AWD. I cant decide which of these cars would be the best decision to purchase and would like other peoples input.
I'm currently weighing the pro's and cons of all of these cars, however I'm leaning towards the Volvo bc I've heard the engine is reliable and there is a good deal on one near me.
2008 Volvo s60 2.5t vs 2008 - 2011 BMW 328xi vs 2008 Acura RL vs 2008 - 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i
AWD isn't a necessity but I would seriously like to have it, and I've never purchased a used car before so I'm basing the 100-130k mile mark on what I've heard and my own personal assumption on reliability.
I'd really appreciate the help, stressing and cannot decide pls and thank you

I recently added oil to my engine and forgot to put the oil cap back on before driving and oil is all over the right side of my engine bay. I've already cleaned up as much as I could with nearly a whole roll of paper towels. What's the best way to clean this? Will it just burn off and run fine? Should I take it somewhere and get it cleaned? What kind of place can clean an engine bay? If it maters 2013 subaru impreza

I have a JDM Subaru Forester s/tb I've had since 2015. Great car but the back spoiler just keeps bubbling. I've had it painted 2x professionally and it seems like no matter what after 6 months to a year or two get like bubbles under the paint then they eventually pop to reveal the what I'm told is a fiberglass part.
Is there a way of sealing it? The car had admittedly baked in the sun so is it offgassing still after 24 years haha?
Car is dirty, got some forest fire smoke residue the last few weeks.

There is a fanfiction where the characters of Re:Zero react to the if stories. That fanfiction is called:The Phthonus cast reacts to all if-stories.
In one of the chapters Crusch mentions are the cast responsible for all the acts they had committed in the if story even though this is a different reality. Naturally, we say no because the cast from the main story, and the one from the ifs are different people, but I personally think there is one exception.
In the Wrath-if, Subaru runs away from the mansion instead of suiciding. For people who read those if-stories, we all know Subaru becomes purge king and has paranoia and trust issues and all that stuff. I do not think anyone in the cast is responsible for any of that happening except 3 people. Those 3 would be: Roswaal, Ram, and Rem.
The reason why is because their action up until that cliff scene are completely identical. There is no divergence from the main story and side story until Subaru decides to run in Wrath-if. If we were to have both realities sync up until that scene, stop time, and teleport both Rams into the other's reality, the plots would still stay the same for both stories even though Subaru in if is running away from a technically different Ram, and Subaru in main saves Ram from the if.
There is also a matter of awareness. If the characters from the main story is made aware that the reality has turned out that way because of their actions, that sin is there for them to bear. I mean, is it really fair to blame someone if they weren't aware what they're doing is harmful? I know there may be exceptions, but this is a grey area.

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Who ever has a damn skeleton in the back of their Subaru imma fight you, almost gave me a heart attack.

I'm in the market for a new Subaru Outback and am so conflicted as to what to get.
I would like to keep the car for a long time. Like 15-20 years.
On the one hand, I don't drive very much (average 5,000 miles per year), so this makes me want to get something a little more minimal like a premium model.
However, I have a herniated disc in my back, which makes my back hurt unless I have an ultra comfortable seat with sufficient lumbar support, so this makes me want to get something like a Touring model. Though I'm hoping my back problems will eventually go away and this be a non-factor in the future, they have been an issue for the past 3 years.
The added features in a Touring model seem nice, but a lot of them are not very necessary because, again, I don't drive a whole lot.
I test drove a base model and it hurt my back way too much. The premium model isn't too bad, but the touring model is comfortable.
I have the money for either but would like to start saving up for other things too like a house. I'm a teacher and have been saving up money pretty hard for a while to afford a new car. I've never had a nice car before, so it feels weird buying something nice.

Hi there!
I went to turn my heater on and this is what happened. When I first did it, i made that whirring noise the whole time. After shutting it off and on again a few times, it's doing what is posted in the video.
It's a 2004 Subaru outback if that matters.
It worked fine the last time I used it. What the heck is happening here?
Thanks in advance for your time and opinion!