Toyota 4 wire ignition coil diagram
How to prevent the burnout failure of the screw air compressor oil core?
2023.06.03 04:57 Sollant-Compressor How to prevent the burnout failure of the screw air compressor oil core?
 | submitted by Sollant-Compressor to u/Sollant-Compressor [link] [comments] The oil separation core is one of the important accessories of the screw air compressor. It is to separate the oil and gas, let the oil return to the internal circulation of the air compressor, and let the gas be discharged for the user. At the same time, the oil separator core is also a vulnerable consumable, and it needs to be replaced in time after it expires. The failure of the oil split core to burn is actually the oil split core being ignited. So, what are the measures to prevent the air compressor oil split core from burning?
https://preview.redd.it/xuk5hf32xp3b1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b6f8eedbd74e356c9744d732a6f3917eab55dfb
https://preview.redd.it/q6uvi2t2xp3b1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7ac0b82f73a22fd5763e3d06f0f349a90cb9f03
https://preview.redd.it/6p4w6ss3xp3b1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53fdbe82f9d1830cd05c7e868a79f897dbb00d5b https://preview.redd.it/ef9ljss3xp3b1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcac9ee7a352521d37f114b89a34778a8803e151 Sollant Focus on Energy Saving http://www.sollantcompressor.com #sollantfactory #screwaircompressor #SollantCompressor #aircompressormanufacturer #AirCompressorSupplier #sollant |
2023.06.03 02:09 SuperUnstableGenius Frustration with NEMA stepper driver
Hi friends, this is my first time working with NEMA stepper motors, and I am frustrated with getting the driver to work. I have bought a couple different drivers such as this one: https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/digital-stepper-driver-1-0-4-2a-20-50vdc-for-nema-17-23-24-stepper-motor-dm542t
Hopefully I am just dumb about stepper motors and my problem has a boneheaded answer, but my googling has not turned up anything.
There seem to be a few different very similar models on Amazon. I apologize I cannot attach my circuit diagram, but I have hooked this up in a pretty standard way: I've left ENA disconnected, and am driving PUL+ using a 3.3V 100Hz pulse train, level shifted up to 5V. PUL-, DIR+ and DIR- are grounded.
24VDC is connected to the electronics ground and the +/- inputs.
I am seeing two weird things:
1) When disconnected, the level shifter is outputting 5V pulses. When I connect it to PUL+, it immediately drives the pulse amplitude down to 3.5ish volts. I put a 10k pull up resistor on it and it still happened. The D542T is supposed to be driven by 5V I'm pretty sure. Is PUL+ drawing too much current maybe? Guess I should try measuring that.
2) The other strange thing is that, if I look at e.g. A+ vs ground, it outputs a constant 20 Hz at about 13V, even with PUL+ and PUL- disconnected. Based on my (very limtied) understanding of stepper motors, I would expect this value to be some fraction of the input pulse frequency. Does this driver use some sort of PWM? In any case, whatever is coming out of the driver, it is not driving my motor. I have tried to double check that the pinouts of the motor match my wiring, but it appears that there may be two different pinout configurations for NEMA coils with the same color wires and/or 4-pin connector. The 20 kHz frequency and amplitude seem unaffected by whatever I put into the driver.
Anyway, the motor isn't moving. It just sits there vibrating a little bit. Any advice would be welcome! I would really like to just drive a high power stepper motor simply, I've got twin six year olds and not a lot of time.
submitted by SuperUnstableGenius to robotics [link] [comments]
Hopefully I am just dumb about stepper motors and my problem has a boneheaded answer, but my googling has not turned up anything.
There seem to be a few different very similar models on Amazon. I apologize I cannot attach my circuit diagram, but I have hooked this up in a pretty standard way: I've left ENA disconnected, and am driving PUL+ using a 3.3V 100Hz pulse train, level shifted up to 5V. PUL-, DIR+ and DIR- are grounded.
24VDC is connected to the electronics ground and the +/- inputs.
I am seeing two weird things:
1) When disconnected, the level shifter is outputting 5V pulses. When I connect it to PUL+, it immediately drives the pulse amplitude down to 3.5ish volts. I put a 10k pull up resistor on it and it still happened. The D542T is supposed to be driven by 5V I'm pretty sure. Is PUL+ drawing too much current maybe? Guess I should try measuring that.
2) The other strange thing is that, if I look at e.g. A+ vs ground, it outputs a constant 20 Hz at about 13V, even with PUL+ and PUL- disconnected. Based on my (very limtied) understanding of stepper motors, I would expect this value to be some fraction of the input pulse frequency. Does this driver use some sort of PWM? In any case, whatever is coming out of the driver, it is not driving my motor. I have tried to double check that the pinouts of the motor match my wiring, but it appears that there may be two different pinout configurations for NEMA coils with the same color wires and/or 4-pin connector. The 20 kHz frequency and amplitude seem unaffected by whatever I put into the driver.
Anyway, the motor isn't moving. It just sits there vibrating a little bit. Any advice would be welcome! I would really like to just drive a high power stepper motor simply, I've got twin six year olds and not a lot of time.
2023.06.03 01:37 AutoCodes P0355 2011 TOYOTA CAMRY - Ignition Coil 5 Primary/Secondary Circuit
 | submitted by AutoCodes to AutoCodesCom [link] [comments] |
2023.06.03 01:35 PrivatePilot9 Can way out of whack timing cause a bad knock? (Old school boat)
Hey all. Long but detailed explanation below.
Family members twin engine boat. Twin 3L 4 cylinders. Old school distributor and coil setup with centrifugal advance, but ignition has been converted to electronic (Pertronics)
First time out this year.
Engine oil, coolant, all good.
Engines both ran and sounded beautiful under light load. Ran for a half hour to bring engines up to temperature slowly being the first run of the year, then stepped the boat up onto plane and headed down the lake at speed.
Engine temperatures were all solid, never ran outside normal temps at all.
Oil pressures good.
Slowed down about 5 minutes later and the port side engine had a knock.
Opened engine bay and yeah, it's a knock in the engine for sure.
Pulled plugs just out of curiosity and all 4 are evenly white. Like, lean engine white. No signs of coolant or anything. No electrode melting or anything.
We anchored and had lunch etc. On restart with the engine initially cooler the knock was reduced (almost gone actually for the first 5-10 seconds) but as it heated up it came back.
We ran at low rpm all the way back to the dock and left things be for now.
This engine has some work done on it this spring in the vicinity of the distributor (new alternator) so there's a chance maybe the timing got moved. Or maybe the advance advanced and didn't retard again as a spring is busted in the mechanical advance.
But....would this cause this sort of knock at this volume? Pinging / detonation I have heard before, but not a full on knock.
Thoughts?
submitted by PrivatePilot9 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
Family members twin engine boat. Twin 3L 4 cylinders. Old school distributor and coil setup with centrifugal advance, but ignition has been converted to electronic (Pertronics)
First time out this year.
Engine oil, coolant, all good.
Engines both ran and sounded beautiful under light load. Ran for a half hour to bring engines up to temperature slowly being the first run of the year, then stepped the boat up onto plane and headed down the lake at speed.
Engine temperatures were all solid, never ran outside normal temps at all.
Oil pressures good.
Slowed down about 5 minutes later and the port side engine had a knock.
Opened engine bay and yeah, it's a knock in the engine for sure.
Pulled plugs just out of curiosity and all 4 are evenly white. Like, lean engine white. No signs of coolant or anything. No electrode melting or anything.
We anchored and had lunch etc. On restart with the engine initially cooler the knock was reduced (almost gone actually for the first 5-10 seconds) but as it heated up it came back.
We ran at low rpm all the way back to the dock and left things be for now.
This engine has some work done on it this spring in the vicinity of the distributor (new alternator) so there's a chance maybe the timing got moved. Or maybe the advance advanced and didn't retard again as a spring is busted in the mechanical advance.
But....would this cause this sort of knock at this volume? Pinging / detonation I have heard before, but not a full on knock.
Thoughts?
2023.06.03 00:15 Many_Standard1512 Wiring help
 | So I'm kind of new to all this, and have a question about wiring. I bought a Skar sk-9005d amp, spx-65c components for the front doors, tx-69 speakers for in the back, and a vd-10 dual 4ohm sub to replace my stock subwoofer using my stock enclosure (this is going into a 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS). My question is what's the best way to wire the subwoofer to the amp? I know if I wire the sub in parallel it will drop it down to a 2ohm load, which the amp can handle, but do I then bridge the amp as well? The amp has 2 positive and 2 negative connections for the 5th channel, but I'm not sure the best way to run them to the sub. To I run a positive and negative to each voice coil like in the first diagram, or do I run both positives and both negatives to the coils like in the second diagram? Any help would be greatly appreciated submitted by Many_Standard1512 to SkarAudio [link] [comments] |
2023.06.02 23:26 Wan_Haole_Faka Car getting power with no key, doesn't start after coil wire replacement.
Just had valve cover replaced along with a coil wire in my '05 Toyota Solara. I ran a few errands and now it won't turn over or start but the power is permanently on. Even the windows work, check engine light on, battery light on, oil light on, but everything is maintained.
I called my mechanic and one of his guys who did the work answered. Just told me to try to jump it (haven't yet) and told me it could be unrelated.
The car has 247,000 miles on it but it's been babied. I just put in a new alternator, struts and I have a record of every oil change each 3,000 miles.
I thought to clean the terminals, but it's obviously getting power, just not starting. Battery is fairly new and I broke down at an Advance lol. Tested the battery and it was giving inconclusive readings and said check connections.
I'm going to ask someone for a jump to see if that works. Any ideas?
Thanks and have a great weekend!
*Update: car will not jump, battery temporarily disconnected.
submitted by Wan_Haole_Faka to AutoMechanics [link] [comments]
I called my mechanic and one of his guys who did the work answered. Just told me to try to jump it (haven't yet) and told me it could be unrelated.
The car has 247,000 miles on it but it's been babied. I just put in a new alternator, struts and I have a record of every oil change each 3,000 miles.
I thought to clean the terminals, but it's obviously getting power, just not starting. Battery is fairly new and I broke down at an Advance lol. Tested the battery and it was giving inconclusive readings and said check connections.
I'm going to ask someone for a jump to see if that works. Any ideas?
Thanks and have a great weekend!
*Update: car will not jump, battery temporarily disconnected.
2023.06.02 22:17 bengalsbyamilly NO sound from head unit 🫥
 | I’m getting no sound from my iDrive head unit. submitted by bengalsbyamilly to CarAV [link] [comments] I have a 2011 bmw 335d e90 with base audio, 6 speakers and no amp. The front 2 door speakers are in parallel with the front 2 under seat subwoofers. The rear deck speakers are ran separately on their own lines but have a high pass filter so I can’t tap into that for any bass. I had everything wired previously and it all worked as it should. I have a spare sub in a box with an amp and everything already mounted ready to go. I got bored one night and decided to throw it in the truck of my car. I wired everything up and spliced it all together, etc. and it all worked fine and the sub played like it should. I decided I didn’t want to take up that much trunk space with a big subwoofer box so I decided to run a spare 4 channel amp I have laying around up to them instead. My plan was to replace the rear deck speakers and run the 4 channel amp to the 2 rear deck speakers and also to the 2 under seat subwoofers. I wired everything together and got nothing. I doubled checked it all and realized I had the subwoofer speaker signal taps for the line out converter mixed up with the wires than ran to the actual front subwoofer itself. So, I had my amp hooked up running 4 channels but 1 of the 4 channels was running back into the stock audio system which runs in parallel. Ever since I wired it up that way I haven’t gotten any audio from the car but I will get a hissing/scratchy noise from this subwoofer. It still works fine though, just no sound..? The line out converter I used is just a basic one (Scosche LOC2SL) which worked fine for the mono amp and sub when I tried. I used the same LOC for the 4 channel amp when I wired that up but obviously the 1 set of wires ran back into the system. I get 0 audio now after that happened where as before it all worked as it should. I was wondering how to check my iDrive head unit maybe with a multimeter? I wired it back to stock form again and still don’t get ANY audio. The whole reason I started this project was I was bored and already had all of this stuff sitting around so I didn’t have to buy anything 🤣. I’ve checked fuses and they were fine but I haven’t checked the MOST system or whatever it’s called. The MOST/fiber optic system is all new to me so I’m learning that right now lol. My head unit and all of its features work as they should no problem, I just don’t have ANY audio for literally anything. I’m not really sure how to check the head unit to see if it’s fried or not either. I should also note that all front 4 speakers (2 doors, 2 under seats subs) were all 4 ohm but when I replaced the under seat subs those are 2 ohm. Front doors are 4 ohm and under seat subs are 2 ohm. All four are single voice coils. The stock head unit is 2 ohm stable and ran that way fine ever since I installed them in 06/2021. I forgot I ordered 2 ohm instead of 4 ohm and noticed that when my amp wouldn’t put out any signal to my speakers but wasn’t in protect mode. The video attached is what I get when I hook up the + and - to the sub while the car is off. (Battery still hooked up, just not on accessory mode or anything) When it gets power (no audio or sound) it will click and pop like in the video. The cone itself sucks itself down towards the magnet when connected and will stay like that permanently while connected. It will put off a very faint hiss/scratching noise while connected. After letting it sit for like 5 mins connected the middle of the cone was pretty hot so I disconnected it and this is where I’m at lol. I know I messed the system or whatever up probably, I just want to know how to check it all to narrow it down if anybody has ideas and is somewhat familiar with this system. I’ve always wired a bunch of stuff up in 10+ cars of mine without a problem but you can’t win them all I guess 😅 |
2023.06.02 21:11 Apprehensive-Mind566 Are the CV shafts the same on both sides?
I have to replace my CV shaft and like always I research Google or advice LOL and I'm finding two different answers to my question, some say the same some say they're different. Can somebody please help help me figure out which parts I need to get and same with the seal because I'll probably replace that when I pull the CV shaft out, I've read that there are a driver side and passenger side seal which makes sense if the CV shafts are also different but if they're the same you would think the seal would be the same... I don't know if Toyota put different front axles on certain models or not, I have a 98 Limited, 3.4 l with the rear diff lock, automatic transmission. I'd really appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction. And just out of curiosity would putting a bigger coil spring and shock in the front make any difference, the specs on the coil springs say they can give a Max of 2" of lift which it's probably only like 1", would that require a different CV shaft
submitted by Apprehensive-Mind566 to 3rdGen4Runner [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 20:40 Mission_Efficiency54 Could use some 1996 jeep xj advice
Backstory: jeep has been idling a little rough last month plus, not too horrible but noticed it. I changed the sensors on the throttle which seemed o help a little but not total cure.
Last night going thru the drive thru jeep shut down on me.
Turns over, cranks great but doesn't fire up. Happened suddenly so something crapped out. Always fired right up.
I called a tow. Tow driver told me it's prob distributor ignition pick up
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-distributor-ignition-pickup-mea2259/12515351-p?product_channel=local&store=8655&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=8655&&&gclid=CjwKCAjwpuajBhBpEiwA_ZtfhX4ynjW3rKQus8wMm7gJpU4k0kfeGx_HuBffmhiyrhusWzWcErMx6BoCzo0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I picked one up this am and put it in and it didn't solve the problem.
I have a new distrib cap (old is pretty corroded), rotor, wires, coil and spark plugs if that's even the problem. Haven't put them in yet
Right now turns over, no spark. (Or fuel?)
Thoughts on my approach? Thanks
submitted by Mission_Efficiency54 to CherokeeXJ [link] [comments]
Last night going thru the drive thru jeep shut down on me.
Turns over, cranks great but doesn't fire up. Happened suddenly so something crapped out. Always fired right up.
I called a tow. Tow driver told me it's prob distributor ignition pick up
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-distributor-ignition-pickup-mea2259/12515351-p?product_channel=local&store=8655&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=8655&&&gclid=CjwKCAjwpuajBhBpEiwA_ZtfhX4ynjW3rKQus8wMm7gJpU4k0kfeGx_HuBffmhiyrhusWzWcErMx6BoCzo0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I picked one up this am and put it in and it didn't solve the problem.
I have a new distrib cap (old is pretty corroded), rotor, wires, coil and spark plugs if that's even the problem. Haven't put them in yet
Right now turns over, no spark. (Or fuel?)
Thoughts on my approach? Thanks
2023.06.02 19:59 nagup14 Can bus sniffing, but how to find the meaning of a message
Got a project where I am getting an electric car seat to work standalone. The first hurdle was to send the "keep alive" message every 100ms via the can bus, I believe it's "ignition on". Now I need to figure out what message controls the heated seats. My plan is to probe the connector on the car that the seat came from and see what messages appear when I press the heated seat buttons. I will receive maybe hundreds of messages in those few seconds so how can I figure out what messages are doing what?
Is there any kind of database for commands from different makes and their functions?
Got access to an oscilloscope, also an Arduino with CAN bus shield (clone of this) and can confirm it's working as the seat does stay awake and the electronic functions continue to work. If anyone wants to see I can give images of the wiring diagram as well which shows what bus the module is on etc.
Also, can I do this from the OBD2 port on the car? So I dont have to disconnect the battery, unplug the seat (airbag safety) then connect it again and probe. I believe the K_CAN bus is pins 6 and 14 or something
EDIT: THE CAR IS BMW E93 M3
Can anyone suggest open source/ windows programs that can monitotransmit to the can bus, especially ones that work with a USB - dcan/kcan cable (those generic blue ones)
Link for the main diagram I'm looking at: https://ibb.co/CJ0Qhht . The seat module (A187) is on the seat, and communicates via the K_CAN bus to the AC system(A11a). The buttons controlling the heated seats is connected to the AC (A169)
submitted by nagup14 to CarHacking [link] [comments]
Is there any kind of database for commands from different makes and their functions?
Got access to an oscilloscope, also an Arduino with CAN bus shield (clone of this) and can confirm it's working as the seat does stay awake and the electronic functions continue to work. If anyone wants to see I can give images of the wiring diagram as well which shows what bus the module is on etc.
Also, can I do this from the OBD2 port on the car? So I dont have to disconnect the battery, unplug the seat (airbag safety) then connect it again and probe. I believe the K_CAN bus is pins 6 and 14 or something
EDIT: THE CAR IS BMW E93 M3
Can anyone suggest open source/ windows programs that can monitotransmit to the can bus, especially ones that work with a USB - dcan/kcan cable (those generic blue ones)
Link for the main diagram I'm looking at: https://ibb.co/CJ0Qhht . The seat module (A187) is on the seat, and communicates via the K_CAN bus to the AC system(A11a). The buttons controlling the heated seats is connected to the AC (A169)
2023.06.02 19:58 Shandriel R61 nasty noise and smell
I'm honestly about to chuck the fukken thing off a cliff somewhere.. Have had 5-6 grand in service and repairs costs in the past 3 years alone.. (drove about 20k km in that time)
The garage is an official Mini Dealer, but they appear to be all but incompetent and greedy mothertruckers!
About 2 months back, the engine suddenly "failed" and went into limited power mode. The garage charged me 750 bucks (EUUSD equiv.) to replace all 4 spark plugs and all 4 ignition coils.
Ever since, the engine just sounded wrong and too loud, uncomfortably loud!.. (and Im saying that as someone driving a Honda S2000 with cold air intake and Tanabe exhaust, which is LESS loud!)
the mechanic agreed that it sounded very loud when they took it in for a service 3 weeks ago. They learned that an intake tube for the engine was damaged, and wrote me an offer, charging another 300 bucks for the part and to replace it. Since they said that it COULD be the reason for the loud noise, I agreed to have this done and asked if they could check the issue out.
Nobody said anything.. at this point, I'm assuming that they don't even take the frigging pos car for a test drive...
(When I brought it in for the service, I told them to put on summer tires and check various issues.
When I got there to pick it up, they had forgotten about the tires.. And they never bothered to check out why I'm having this really, really annoying constant clinking sound ever since they replaced the discs and pads a year ago... they just flat out ignored it)
So, back to my current issue: "If it doesn't show up as an error, there doesn't appear to be anything wrong." was the answer I got to my question on whether they had found a cause for the engine noise.
so, they fixed the tube and I picked it up, hopeful that the noise would be gone. boy, was I wrong... It sounds just as bad... loud enough to overpower the stereo..
It doesn't depend on the RPM, but it only starts after a minute of driving, or thereabouts.
I was so angry, that after about 10 minutes, I decided to properly fukk the engine, just to see what happens.
So, nobody around.. sports mode, shift down, and floor the bitsh... before the limiter, I lift the foot. strange smell... not clutch burn smell.. not burning plastic smell.. more like oil, maybe?
Try it again, kick the pos into the limiter.. smell comes back, doesn't linger.. more like a cloud passing quickly.
(I had the sun roof open)
I then stopped, opened the hood, but there was no smell...
Does anyone have any idea what I'm dealing with?
P.S.: I want to get the current list of BS issues fixed, then I'm putting that POS up for sale.. I'm so done with that brand!
submitted by Shandriel to MINI [link] [comments]
The garage is an official Mini Dealer, but they appear to be all but incompetent and greedy mothertruckers!
About 2 months back, the engine suddenly "failed" and went into limited power mode. The garage charged me 750 bucks (EUUSD equiv.) to replace all 4 spark plugs and all 4 ignition coils.
Ever since, the engine just sounded wrong and too loud, uncomfortably loud!.. (and Im saying that as someone driving a Honda S2000 with cold air intake and Tanabe exhaust, which is LESS loud!)
the mechanic agreed that it sounded very loud when they took it in for a service 3 weeks ago. They learned that an intake tube for the engine was damaged, and wrote me an offer, charging another 300 bucks for the part and to replace it. Since they said that it COULD be the reason for the loud noise, I agreed to have this done and asked if they could check the issue out.
Nobody said anything.. at this point, I'm assuming that they don't even take the frigging pos car for a test drive...
(When I brought it in for the service, I told them to put on summer tires and check various issues.
When I got there to pick it up, they had forgotten about the tires.. And they never bothered to check out why I'm having this really, really annoying constant clinking sound ever since they replaced the discs and pads a year ago... they just flat out ignored it)
So, back to my current issue: "If it doesn't show up as an error, there doesn't appear to be anything wrong." was the answer I got to my question on whether they had found a cause for the engine noise.
so, they fixed the tube and I picked it up, hopeful that the noise would be gone. boy, was I wrong... It sounds just as bad... loud enough to overpower the stereo..
It doesn't depend on the RPM, but it only starts after a minute of driving, or thereabouts.
I was so angry, that after about 10 minutes, I decided to properly fukk the engine, just to see what happens.
So, nobody around.. sports mode, shift down, and floor the bitsh... before the limiter, I lift the foot. strange smell... not clutch burn smell.. not burning plastic smell.. more like oil, maybe?
Try it again, kick the pos into the limiter.. smell comes back, doesn't linger.. more like a cloud passing quickly.
(I had the sun roof open)
I then stopped, opened the hood, but there was no smell...
Does anyone have any idea what I'm dealing with?
P.S.: I want to get the current list of BS issues fixed, then I'm putting that POS up for sale.. I'm so done with that brand!
2023.06.02 19:20 joshuamarius Different AWG Wire - Volt Meter
I've read quite a bit here on the importance of the AWG and Fuses. I'm doing some testing with Voltmeters and trying to monitor the input of the PV Panel; I am considering this product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
For my test setup, I am using 10 AWG with 30 AMP NL Fuses. However, in the instructions of this Voltmeter (https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61NsVHndP2L._SL1318_.jpg and https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/719nsxVP-dL._SL1500_.jpg) It says that the wiring can be 30-12 AWG, and also: "There's no large current going through the meter, so the 4 wires which are connected to the meter can be any copper wire from 30 AWG to 12 AWG". Can somebody please explain to me how the wiring diagram shows the part of the Shunt being connected to the battery or directly to the solar panel (http://www.windofkeltia.com/eagles-view.org/solaimages/bayite-display-1.png), which lets say is a 200 W / 18 V. How is it that a 24 AWG wire can share the same connection as the 10/12 AWG Wire on the PV+ of the panel? Why would the current coming in not melt this wire?
Any help or explanation is appreciated. Thanks!
submitted by joshuamarius to SolarDIY [link] [comments]
For my test setup, I am using 10 AWG with 30 AMP NL Fuses. However, in the instructions of this Voltmeter (https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61NsVHndP2L._SL1318_.jpg and https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/719nsxVP-dL._SL1500_.jpg) It says that the wiring can be 30-12 AWG, and also: "There's no large current going through the meter, so the 4 wires which are connected to the meter can be any copper wire from 30 AWG to 12 AWG". Can somebody please explain to me how the wiring diagram shows the part of the Shunt being connected to the battery or directly to the solar panel (http://www.windofkeltia.com/eagles-view.org/solaimages/bayite-display-1.png), which lets say is a 200 W / 18 V. How is it that a 24 AWG wire can share the same connection as the 10/12 AWG Wire on the PV+ of the panel? Why would the current coming in not melt this wire?
Any help or explanation is appreciated. Thanks!
2023.06.02 18:35 RickonRivers What would you do? Fix or Relic?
 | Hey! submitted by RickonRivers to LesPaul [link] [comments] I've got an LP that I've done a fair amount of work with. Alnico 2s, reliced, 6-way switch to standard 3 bucker positions and 3 for coil splits, fret level and polish, new pots and cloth wire, new oil and paper caps, locking tuners, new plates, reliced stop bar and tune-o-matic. When I was working on the pups I dropped a screwdriver on the top, and dented it. It's small, 5mm diameter and 2mm depth I think. Two options:
|
2023.06.02 18:07 fundin13 2007 Saab 9-7x 5.3i cylinder 7 misfire
I have an issue with my wife's Saab. Cylinder 7 misfiring cause the engine to wobble. I have replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wire, and spark plug to no avail. Mechanic shop lost credibility with me but states it's the fuel rail. I have seen various things online saying it could be a compressed valve that's used for DOD. Also read it could be related to compression (ie the gasket popped and cylinder is losing compression there). But I didn't see any oil leaking onto the spark plug. To be frank, I have no clue. I just watch YouTube and want to save money if possible. Any recommendations or insights? Thank you all in advance!
submitted by fundin13 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 17:48 LouderWithChouder Hey there! Would anyone be able to help me with creating an accurate wiring diagram for this set up? This is a really cool guitar wiring set up that has a little button on the lower horn that splits the stereo signal going to a stereo 1/4" jack. I want to do this on my guitar, but need some help
 | submitted by LouderWithChouder to ElectricalEngineering [link] [comments] |
2023.06.02 16:08 anonymous_duderino 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Hey everyone,
I’ve got a 2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.6L with 156k miles
Fuse M21 for my ASD relay intermittently pops. I know it controls the fuel and ignition systems but I can’t find any wiring diagrams/schematics that show what exactly it connected to those circuits.
I’ve checked as much wiring as I could for breaks, signs of rubbing etc to locate a short but cannot find anything.
I’ve run diagnostics using a Snapon scan tool to see if any of the electronics (fuel injectors, fuel pump, temp sensors, cats, coil packs etc) are malfunctioning and everything reads normal as far as operation and voltage draws.
I even looked at the alternator readings to see if it could be my alternator but that checked out normal as well.
It got to the point where the fuse started to blow every time I tried to even start the car. As soon as it would crank over the fuse would pop. I started trying to isolate the issue by replacing the fuse (bought 2 30 packs of fuses), pulling a plug on something and cranking it over to see if maybe when I disconnect something it would stop blowing and isolate the issue then.
I pulled the plugs one at a time on the cam phase actuators and oddly enough the fuse stopped blowing after I pulled the first one. I Replaced the plug one at time on each phase actuator and now I can start the car without blowing the fuse. None of the phasers seemed to be the issue but seemed to fix the issue.
I haven’t tried driving it bc I don’t want to end up getting stranded
Has anyone else had any issues with this particular fuse?
submitted by anonymous_duderino to GrandCherokee [link] [comments]
I’ve got a 2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.6L with 156k miles
Fuse M21 for my ASD relay intermittently pops. I know it controls the fuel and ignition systems but I can’t find any wiring diagrams/schematics that show what exactly it connected to those circuits.
I’ve checked as much wiring as I could for breaks, signs of rubbing etc to locate a short but cannot find anything.
I’ve run diagnostics using a Snapon scan tool to see if any of the electronics (fuel injectors, fuel pump, temp sensors, cats, coil packs etc) are malfunctioning and everything reads normal as far as operation and voltage draws.
I even looked at the alternator readings to see if it could be my alternator but that checked out normal as well.
It got to the point where the fuse started to blow every time I tried to even start the car. As soon as it would crank over the fuse would pop. I started trying to isolate the issue by replacing the fuse (bought 2 30 packs of fuses), pulling a plug on something and cranking it over to see if maybe when I disconnect something it would stop blowing and isolate the issue then.
I pulled the plugs one at a time on the cam phase actuators and oddly enough the fuse stopped blowing after I pulled the first one. I Replaced the plug one at time on each phase actuator and now I can start the car without blowing the fuse. None of the phasers seemed to be the issue but seemed to fix the issue.
I haven’t tried driving it bc I don’t want to end up getting stranded
Has anyone else had any issues with this particular fuse?
2023.06.02 16:02 bengalsbyamilly No sound from iDrive head unit
 | I have a 2011 bmw 335d e90 with base audio, 6 speakers and no amp. The front 2 door speakers are in parallel with the front 2 under seat subwoofers. The rear deck speakers are ran separately on their own lines but have a high pass filter so I can’t tap into that for any bass. I had everything wired previously and it all worked as it should. I have a spare sub in a box with an amp and everything already mounted ready to go. I got bored one night and decided to throw it in the truck of my car. I wired everything up and spliced it all together, etc. and it all worked fine and the sub played like it should. I decided I didn’t want to take up that much trunk space with a big subwoofer box so I decided to run a spare 4 channel amp I have laying around up to them instead. My plan was to replace the rear deck speakers and run the 4 channel amp to the 2 rear deck speakers and also to the 2 underwear subwoofers. I wired everything together and got nothing. I doubled checked it all and realized I had the subwoofer speaker signal taps for the line out converter mixed up with the wires than ran to the actual front subwoofer itself. So, I had my amp hooked up running 4 channels but 1 of the 4 channels was running back into the stock audio system which runs in parallel. Ever since I wired it up that way I haven’t gotten any audio from the car but I will get a hissing/scratchy noise from this subwoofer. Not sure if I tried that stock head units audio? It still works fine though, just no sound..? I’ve checked fuses and they were fine but I haven’t checked the MOST system or whatever it’s called. The MOST/fiber optic system is all new to me so I’m learning that right now lol. My head unit and all of its features work as they should no problem, I just don’t have ANY audio for literally anything. I’m not really sure how to check the head unit to see if it’s fried or not either. submitted by bengalsbyamilly to E90 [link] [comments] I should also note that all front 4 speakers (2 doors, 2 under seats subs) were all 4 ohm but when I replaced the under seat subs those are 2 ohm. Front doors are 4 ohm and under seat subs are 2 ohm. All four are single voice coils. The stock head unit is 2 ohm stable and ran that way fine ever since I installed them in 06/2021. I forgot I ordered 2 ohm instead of 4 ohm and noticed that when my amp wouldn’t put out any signal to my speakers but wasn’t in protect mode. The video attached is what I get when I hook up the + and - to the sub while the car is off. (Battery still hooked up, just not on accessory mode or anything) |
2023.06.02 15:42 Vloxalion [USA-PA] [H] 12400 based complete pc w/peripherals & accessories & spares [W] Local Cash
"Bump" of previous post last week. All have been unused/untouched since March 1st, just sitting there or in boxes, except the monitor.
$650 for everything (list 1 and list 2). Not parting out due to payment method precluding shipping.
TL;DR quick overview of all parts
one i5-12400 w/stock cooler, 1 downdraft cooler, 3 120mm tower coolers
two B660m ddr4 motherboards, one win10pro key, and one anti-bending lga 1700 bracket
two kits 3200c16 ddr4, one 2x8gb singlerank other 2x16gb dualrank
one RX460 4gb gpu
two nvme m.2 drives; 500gb sn770, 2tb 970 evo plus
two cases, one matx nr200 clone, other atx lancool 216 and 5pack of arctic p12 pwm fans
two psu, one sfx 600w platinum (w/ 1 cable extension), other atx (300)w F-tier
one 24'' 1920x1200 60hz monitor with a desk clamp arm
cheap mouse and keyboard(keyboard w/RGB!!!....sry)
one set entry level professional speakers and an old sound card
webcam, xbox360 controller, microphone
Local cash only, no paypal(don't have one), quakertown-doylestown area in bucks county.
Timestamps
pet/[email protected]/[email protected]/scent free household, and do not eat near computer area. The second hand items from the 12400 guy exude much less fragrance compared to when they were obtained (assuming his household laundry detergent or similar had fragrance as the source), and I doubt you'd sense it if your own living arrangements have any sort of scented items. They come with all original cables, boxes, manuals, etc I still have. If you want more information about anything, feel free to ask and it will be added. Selling because old 2010 pc with phenom ii x3, gtx460, and 8gb is sufficient for my use case, try for modern hardware again some other time.
Tabulated/Itemized/Descriptors:
submitted by Vloxalion to hardwareswap [link] [comments]
$650 for everything (list 1 and list 2). Not parting out due to payment method precluding shipping.
TL;DR quick overview of all parts
one i5-12400 w/stock cooler, 1 downdraft cooler, 3 120mm tower coolers
two B660m ddr4 motherboards, one win10pro key, and one anti-bending lga 1700 bracket
two kits 3200c16 ddr4, one 2x8gb singlerank other 2x16gb dualrank
one RX460 4gb gpu
two nvme m.2 drives; 500gb sn770, 2tb 970 evo plus
two cases, one matx nr200 clone, other atx lancool 216 and 5pack of arctic p12 pwm fans
two psu, one sfx 600w platinum (w/ 1 cable extension), other atx (300)w F-tier
one 24'' 1920x1200 60hz monitor with a desk clamp arm
cheap mouse and keyboard(keyboard w/RGB!!!....sry)
one set entry level professional speakers and an old sound card
webcam, xbox360 controller, microphone
Local cash only, no paypal(don't have one), quakertown-doylestown area in bucks county.
Timestamps
pet/[email protected]/[email protected]/scent free household, and do not eat near computer area. The second hand items from the 12400 guy exude much less fragrance compared to when they were obtained (assuming his household laundry detergent or similar had fragrance as the source), and I doubt you'd sense it if your own living arrangements have any sort of scented items. They come with all original cables, boxes, manuals, etc I still have. If you want more information about anything, feel free to ask and it will be added. Selling because old 2010 pc with phenom ii x3, gtx460, and 8gb is sufficient for my use case, try for modern hardware again some other time.
Tabulated/Itemized/Descriptors:
| Part Name | Detailed Comments/Condiiton | Currently/Personally Valued at x 1 month ago |
|---|---|---|
| CPU | ||
| i5-12400 | 2nd hand. H0 stepping, not the more power hungry C0 (C0 is a partially disabled 8core die), and is AVX-512 capable going by the production date(did not verify; see motherboard notes). small blemish/ding(?) from previous owner's cooler on ihs, but can't tell if it was permanent indent or rubbed off hard bit of dried paste. includes box and cooler. | 140/140 |
| Coolers | ||
| unknown 6 heatpipe thermalright cooler - possibly the burst assassin non-argb model without fan | 2nd hand from the 12400 guy. tower only. has blemish/nick on contact surface. his laundry detergent had fragrance, so i couldn't use it. he also didn't clean the paste off and shipped it in a ziplock bag. i cleaned it as well as i could and replaced the bag. | 15?/10 |
| noctua s12b redux 1200rpm | 2nd hand from the 12400 guy. same scent problem. can't remember testing it. | 10?/5 |
| arctic alpine 17 co | BNIB, but box looks beat up | 13/8 |
| id cooling se-224-xt-basic | used to cool a 3800X for a few months before the faulty mobo went kaput and sold the other parts of it. no 1700 mounting hardware because it was produced before alder lake. the win10pro key from the msi pro mobo is written on a slip of paper tucked inside the instruction manual. | 25?/15 |
| Thermalright Assassin X 120 refined SE | mounted 90 degrees clockwise for bottom-to-top airflow in sama case | 20/15 |
| Motherboards | ||
| msi b660m mortar wifi ddr4 | mobo vrms have coil whine crackle-hum using turbo boost, most likely related to powerstate/frequency switching (disappears when fully loaded or not doing anything) or concurrent with putting load on the integrated graphics, tried a whole bunch of bios settings to stop it, C1E enabled reduces it. integrated graphics culprit unverified due to case and difficulty with it; haven't tested a discrete card to eliminate igpu cause. latest bios(v19) at the time is flashed, need earlier bios version for avx512 capability, tried to get that instruction set working but found out it involves tainting my kernel and i don't use windows but if you do, the only os-side step is to move the specific intel microcode file out of system32. replaced the ilm with the thermalright one. includes right angle usb3 header adapter. | 100/100 |
| msi b660m a pro ddr4 wifi | 2nd hand from 12400 guy. has smudge on backside near cpu bracket from alcohol solubility test on the paint; backside is alcohol soluble. has same scent as others from him. he did a bad paste job on cpu area and shipped it that way, i cleaned it up (no socket pins got paste on them thankfully because he didn't remove cpu from the board) tested and it works. comes with windows 10 pro key. the m.2 wifi card was worked, but putting it back in this board... i didn't have enough finger dexterity. one of the contact n!pp!es is bent, needs to be bent back. can't get it back out to do that, stuck. includes piece of factory glue that goes between the contacts and holds the leads in place. treat as non wifi version with potential bonus for trying hard enough. anti static bag on one side MAY have trace of urushiol due to being blown away when airing out onto a patch of cracked concrete where two weeks previously had been a sprout which had been disposed of then the area alcohol-doused then two rainstorms. includes right angle usb3 header adapter. | 80/70 |
| thermalright 1700 anti-bending ilm silver | comes with thermal paste(used once) and original ilm of the mortar mobo | 9/8 |
| RAM | ||
| teamgroup 2x8gb 3200 c16 | 2nd hand from 12400 guy, works, had somehow strongest scent of them all. | 32//25 |
| timetec 2x16gb 3200 c16 | dual rank with hynix 8gigabit jjr ic's (lower binned cjr) remember to lock in the voltage to safe level for that ic instead of auto. partially manually overclocked, enabled xmp then increase to gear1 3466mt/s (what i can tell, max speed with the locked vcssa without loosening timings) and the few timings changed are: command rate to real 1N; did not test tighter than tRRD to 6, tRRD_L to 6, and tFAW to 24; tREFI should be able to be higher than 24960 but didn't test; tRFC has errors at 460, can't remember what 480's result was, and 500 is stable. stressapptest for an hour after each change made, no errors. may go tighter, less than 10 attempts worth of tweaking. | 70/65 |
| Storage | ||
| western digital sn770 500gb | 2nd hand from the 12400 guy, but didn't notice scent(was under heatsink). has been secure erased. smart data said 2.4tbw. | 30/25 |
| samsung 970 evo plus 2tb | 2nd hand from best buy geek squad refurbished. smart data indicated literal open box condition. has been secure erased. smart data says 3.28tbw. | 98/80 |
| GPU | ||
| xfx rx460 4gb | 2nd hand from a miner in 2021. was dirty but cleaned it, had mining bios, and the standard bios or other custom bios don't seem stable, but it works with a rx560 bios i modded to rx550 clocks. thought i saw something spherically, iridescently marbled green-yellowgreen falling from it when putting it back together after cleaning but couldn't find the drop or where it may have dropped from, capacitors look ok. single fan version. has annoying blue led. requires 6-pin pcie power even though it draws less than 75w. | 45/35 |
| Cases | ||
| sama im01 | hohboy, man oh man, this case.... removing the front panel carefully according to the manual causes the top clips to break(so that's why it includes two spares), and is difficult to work in even though all sides but the back come off. can't put a discrete gpu in because it can't go into the slot all the way; something about the mobo tray being depressed or pci slot design prevents it. front left usb3.0 defective (blips then doesn't work) but the right one is functional. pci slot magnetic swinging screw cover hinge is a bit bent because the top and bottom packaging foam were switched in factory(foam cutouts did not align). matx mobo prevents bottom from having second fan if not want to risk mobo header bending. | 60/30 |
| lian li lancool 216 black non-rgb model | opened the box and took out the inner accessory box on top but put it right back because became busy and never got around to using it. did not take out the case. almost literally open box. do not know state of tempered glass but jiggling box does not make broken glass sound. | 100/90 |
| arctic p12 pwm pst 5 pack | 2 used in the sama im01, 3 unused | 30/25 |
| PSU | ||
| corsair sf600 platinum | 3 months use. powered the 12400 using integrated graphics, don't think total system power exceeded 150w from the wall. | 110/110 |
| thermaltake tr2 430np | don't know if it was 2nd hand or not. used to power a windows xp office machine which was bought without one. Don't use more than 350 watts; here is a review of the unit showing why- https://www.hardwaresecrets.com/thermaltake-purepower-430w-np-power-supply-review/ its F-tier but would personally trust it in a system pulling less than 100 or so from the wall. one cable with 20+4-pin motherboard connectors one cable with 6-pin pcie connector one cable with 4-pin 12v connector one cable with 3 molex connectors two cables with 3 molex and 1 floppy connector one cable with 2 sata connectors one molex-to-sata converter | 20/5 |
| cablemod black modflex EPS 4+4 pin 45cm extension | sf600 needs the extension to reach the mobo receptacle in the sama case | 9/9 |
| Peripherals/Accessories | ||
| hp zr24w + ergodepot J2 monitor arm | 60hz, 1920x1200, 24inch. 12 years use. ccfl backlight has been on for ~3.3 years. came with a scratch not noticeable when on most of the time. has smudges from over a decade of use, not trusting myself to clean it without scratching. includes J2 monitor arm (desk clamp), but makes it skew a little. when powered on, it knocks channel 6 out of the airwaves until it is turned off. flickers below 100% brightness. | 50+40?(90?)/50+20(70) |
| tecknet um013 mouse | awful scroll wheel. defaults to the lower of the two dpi settings every time it loses power; does not save setting. 2 months use. | 6/3 |
| redragon karura k502 rgb keyboard | 2nd hand. works, but did not verify all keys. | 20/8 |
| presonus eris E3.5 studio monitors | were on my desk for 10 days and powered on at low volume for under an hour, may be low amount of specks of dust, and the speaker wire had been connected, but otherwise is as if you opened up a new one. didn't like the space they took up and preferred my headphones, but B&H would not take these back because i told them i used the included speaker wire. no joke. | 90/80 |
| samson go mic | 2nd hand. works, good shape. usb condenser with omni/-10/cardioid switch and 3.5mm jack. has sticker covering the led to diminish the brightness. | 25/15 |
| xbox 360 wired controller | didn't use it often, but owned it for a really long time. the left thumbstick has worn down, is low tension, and can drift slightly if off center to the northwest. | 10/4 |
| asus xonar dx | 2nd hand. used for a few months in 2011 but was too close to gpu intake so put it away. | 30/18 |
| logitech c600 webcam | model V-U0007 | 12/5 |
| Summary | first number taken from recent reasonable hardwareswap/ebay sales and amazon(when first two no/little results) and second number what i'd pay for the item in question if I was someone else, based on what is known of the condition. Paid 1300+ for just the parts bought in the last year, so imo this is a super deal if you are in the area. | Total: 1299/1073 |
2023.06.02 14:22 bongripper6 Horn
I have a wimpy ass horn in my 17 corolla and wanna change the horn to a different tone. Saw the Tundra/Sequoia horn has the same pin connector as the Corolla but all the pics seem generic and i havent found a wiring diagram for either. Long story short, anybody swap their horn to a different one from a Toyota vehicle without changing the harness or pigtail connections?
submitted by bongripper6 to Toyota [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 13:25 WackoKacko Enquiry: Looking for a consultant to advise on medium-power INDUCTION COIL AND SYSTEM design.
 | I'm an engineer working for a sci-fi enterprise, 42AD, which is trying to make a food printer for home use. We need your expertise. submitted by WackoKacko to consulting [link] [comments] My team and I have decided to use induction heating in our design, but we lack expertise in coil design. We have a cylindrical chamber (Ø100mm/H80mm) that we are trying to heat with a pancake coil (4-5mm stranded enamelled wire). I've attached two images to make it easier. During prototyping, we have ran into the problem that the induction heating module we have, capable of 1kW—DC supply, Royer oscillator topology—is only drawing 600W. In our final design, we are looking to have up to 1.6kW output to the chamber for rapid heating—single-phase AC supply, Half-bridge topology—and I ask for your consulting services to help us get there. We need to solidify our criteria for the heating module design, and your expertise is needed here, too. Finally, we would be interested in small-scale manufacturing of the coils once the design is finalized. We would like to find out about what's out there in terms of industrial techniques for efficient stranded-wire coil fabrication at scale. If interested, please let me know when you could arrange a meeting with me and how you'd like to invoice me. Regards, Kacper Bardecki https://www.42ad.com/ https://preview.redd.it/h17ivhr39l3b1.png?width=501&format=png&auto=webp&s=111be2feeaeb5d8add4e8ca5ed768eb85b5e6a86 https://preview.redd.it/6yawijr39l3b1.png?width=618&format=png&auto=webp&s=3130fdba7293acef4f77313516246fc8a5ab74f9 |
2023.06.02 11:59 BZTrafo_transformer Different Types of Tape Used in High Frequency Transformer
https://reddit.com/link/13y8eda/video/uxophaqwuk3b1/player
Commonly there are several kinds of tapes used in transformers, include Mylar tape, Margin tape, Polyimide tape, Copper Foil Tape, and so on. The tapes are used for insulation, packaging and fixing purpose.
Mylar tape is often used to insulate and secure the winding wires and coils. It is applied between layers of windings to provide electrical insulation and prevent short circuits. The tape helps to hold the windings in place and protect them from damage due to movement or vibration. There are many colors of Mylar Tape, usually red, blue, yellow, white, etc. It has certain elasticity and stretchability, and one side is coated with adhesive.
It is widely used in transformers, motors, capacitors and other types of motors, electronic components for insulation wrapping, and can also be used for high-voltage isolation in the switching power supply.
2.Margin Tape
Margin tape, also known as non-woven tape, is made by bonding a non-woven fabric to a polyester film substrate and coating one side of the non-woven fabric with an acrylic adhesive with excellent performance.
Margin tape is mainly used for insulation of uninterruptible power supplies, dry-type transformers, high temperature industrial frequency transformers, high temperature gaskets and microwave oven transformers.
3.Polyimide Tape
Polyimide tape, which is based on polyimide film with imported silicone pressure-sensitive adhesive, is resistant to high and low temperatures, acids and alkalis, solvents, electrical insulation (class H), and radiation.
In the electronic and electrical industry, it can be used for H-class motor and transformer coil insulation wrapping, high temperature resistant coil end fixing, temperature measuring RTD protection, capacitor and wire wrapping and other bonding insulation under high temperature working conditions.
In the circuit board manufacturing industry, it can be used for electronic protection paste, especially for SMT temperature resistance protection, PCB gold finger protection, electronic transformers and other high temperature and moisture protection.
4.Copper Foil Tape
Copper foil tape, a metal tape, is mainly used for electromagnetic shielding applications.Its purity is higher than 99.95%, eliminating electromagnetic (EMI) interference, isolating the harm of electromagnetic waves to human body, and avoiding unwanted voltage and current.
It is generally applied to transformers, cell phones, computers, PDAs, PDPs, LED screens and other various electronic products where electromagnetic shielding is required.
Issued by Hangzhou Bozhou Electric Applicance Co., Ltd.
High Frequency Transformer
www.bztrafo.com
submitted by BZTrafo_transformer to u/BZTrafo_transformer [link] [comments]
Commonly there are several kinds of tapes used in transformers, include Mylar tape, Margin tape, Polyimide tape, Copper Foil Tape, and so on. The tapes are used for insulation, packaging and fixing purpose.
- Mylar Tape
Mylar tape is often used to insulate and secure the winding wires and coils. It is applied between layers of windings to provide electrical insulation and prevent short circuits. The tape helps to hold the windings in place and protect them from damage due to movement or vibration. There are many colors of Mylar Tape, usually red, blue, yellow, white, etc. It has certain elasticity and stretchability, and one side is coated with adhesive.
It is widely used in transformers, motors, capacitors and other types of motors, electronic components for insulation wrapping, and can also be used for high-voltage isolation in the switching power supply.
2.Margin Tape
Margin tape, also known as non-woven tape, is made by bonding a non-woven fabric to a polyester film substrate and coating one side of the non-woven fabric with an acrylic adhesive with excellent performance.
Margin tape is mainly used for insulation of uninterruptible power supplies, dry-type transformers, high temperature industrial frequency transformers, high temperature gaskets and microwave oven transformers.
3.Polyimide Tape
Polyimide tape, which is based on polyimide film with imported silicone pressure-sensitive adhesive, is resistant to high and low temperatures, acids and alkalis, solvents, electrical insulation (class H), and radiation.
In the electronic and electrical industry, it can be used for H-class motor and transformer coil insulation wrapping, high temperature resistant coil end fixing, temperature measuring RTD protection, capacitor and wire wrapping and other bonding insulation under high temperature working conditions.
In the circuit board manufacturing industry, it can be used for electronic protection paste, especially for SMT temperature resistance protection, PCB gold finger protection, electronic transformers and other high temperature and moisture protection.
4.Copper Foil Tape
Copper foil tape, a metal tape, is mainly used for electromagnetic shielding applications.Its purity is higher than 99.95%, eliminating electromagnetic (EMI) interference, isolating the harm of electromagnetic waves to human body, and avoiding unwanted voltage and current.
It is generally applied to transformers, cell phones, computers, PDAs, PDPs, LED screens and other various electronic products where electromagnetic shielding is required.
Issued by Hangzhou Bozhou Electric Applicance Co., Ltd.
High Frequency Transformer
www.bztrafo.com
2023.06.02 09:36 Phonefix-bellin JCID RBOX Bus Analyer Phone Signal Faults Diagnostic Tool
 | 2023 JC new tool- JCID RBOX Bus Analyer iPhone Android Signal Fault Detection Measurement Diagnostic Tool. submitted by Phonefix-bellin to Phonefixtool [link] [comments] JCID RBOX Bus Analyzer with drive-by wire dual probe used with JC drawing diagram for identifying signal failure points of iPhone/Android Phones. Get JCID RBOX From China Phonefix store: https://www.diyfixtool.com/products/jcid-rbox-bus-analyzer-phone-signal-faults-detection-repair-tool JCID RBOX features: 1. Identifying parts of the failure points of signal quickly. 2. Detect and locate the signal failure points rapidly. 3. With drive-by wire dual probes, help you fly less wires. 4. By matching with JC Drawing software, users can check iPhone and Android bus data freely forever, locate the failure component as well as add their own bus data so as to build a personal database. https://preview.redd.it/mkeodzov5k3b1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=03eaa6dbf27c7022d3c9e93541442739e7243753 https://preview.redd.it/iczlpxl06k3b1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4db3e7ab92ef81e3c1bdf5c3db501adf64ad479e https://preview.redd.it/pi30c2m06k3b1.jpg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c8049dd8e247e2f579f5eb7403fed8dc9127897 |